Heavy metal on the pitch: Why Iron Wind Metals remains indispensable for BattleTech

In the current BattleTech renaissance, led by the fantastic new plastic boxed sets from Catalyst Game Labs (CGL), one name sometimes almost unfairly takes a back seat: Iron Wind Metals (IWM). But for veterans and ambitious Alpha Strike players, this manufacturer is far more than just a relic from the old days.

In this post, I take an in-depth look at the company that is preserving the legacy of BattleTech and analyze whether the switch to pewter is worth it for your Alpha Strike company.

The forge behind the legends: Who is Iron Wind Metals?

To understand the significance of IWM, you have to take a look at the history books (or the BattleTechWiki).

Iron Wind Metals was founded in 2001, but is much older in spirit. The company is the direct physical and spiritual successor to Ral Partha, the legendary miniatures manufacturer that has been with BattleTech since the 1980s. When Ral Partha ceased to exist, former employees and founders secured the licenses and production machines.

What makes them special? IWM is based in the USA and produces “Lead-Free Pewter”. They are the guardians of the “Holy Grail”: While CGL primarily covers the most popular 100-150 mechs in plastic, IWM has access to thousands of molds. They are the only place to find mechs that have only appeared once in an obscure novel or a marginal note technical readout. They also produce the new redesigns in metal alongside CGL. You can find a list of IVM miniatures on Sarna. There are also single parts like LRM Launcher, Gauss Rifle,… to modify your own miniatures.

Metal vs. plastic in Alpha Strike: the analysis

Alpha Strike differs from classic BattleTech by mass battles, free movement without hexes (mostly) and the strong focus on Combined Arms (the interaction of mechs, tanks, infantry and support such as artillery or air strikes). Here are the detailed pros and cons of the IWM models in this context:

The advantages: Why experts swear by metal

1. the premier class: Combined Arms & Support units This is the strongest argument for IWM. In Alpha Strike, tanks (vehicles) are extremely powerful and low-scoring.

• Problem: There are hardly any plastic tanks from CGL (only in the Mercenaries Kickstarter and a few packs).
• Solution: IWM has hundreds of tanks, hovercrafts, VTOLs (helicopters) and artillery pieces. If you want to play a realistic Alpha Strike army with Manticore tanks, SRM carriers or Warrior VTOLs, you almost inevitably have to use IWM.

2. single purchase instead of compulsory packs You need exactly one Vulture (Mad Dog) for your lance, but in the plastic set you have to buy four other mechs that you don’t want? With IWM you buy exactly the model you need. This is ideal for filling gaps in your collection with surgical precision.

3. variant diversity (WYSIWYG) In Alpha Strike, different mech variants have drastically different values. An Atlas AS7-D plays differently than an AS7-S.

• Plastic: You usually only have the standard model.
• Metal: IWM often offers 3, 4 or 5 different variants of the same chassis. You can place exactly the model that corresponds to your unit card on the table (“What You See Is What You Get”).

4. feel and stability A pewter mech has “authority”. It weighs heavily in the hand. On the gaming table – especially when playing with terrain and without hex grids – metal miniatures stand more firmly. They don’t slip at the slightest breeze or if the measuring tape bumps lightly.

5. the “reset button” for painters A huge advantage for hobbyists: metal is chemically resistant. If the painting fails, you can simply soak the mech in acetone. The paint comes off, the metal remains intact. With plastic, acetone would melt the model into a lump. Metal minis are therefore purchases for eternity.

The disadvantages: Where there is light, there is also shadow

1. assembly (hobby skill required) This is the biggest hurdle for beginners.

• Glue: Plastic glue does not work; you need superglue (cyanoacrylate), which is often brittle.
• Pinning: Glue is often not enough for heavy parts or thin joints. You have to drill holes with a hand drill and insert metal pins. This requires tools and practice.
• Filling gaps: Tin castings rarely fit perfectly. You will need “green stuff” (modeling clay) to fill gaps at the gluing points.

2. sensitivity during play (“chipping”) Metal is hard, but paint is not.

• If two metal mechs collide, paint is almost guaranteed to chip off (chipping).
• If a mech falls off the table, it often breaks apart at the bonding point or heavy parts bend irrevocably.
• Solution: You must seal metal miniatures with clear lacquer (varnish), which is an additional work step.

3. scale creep and inconsistency Since IWM uses molds from 30 years ago, the size fluctuates. A mech modeled in 1990 often looks tiny and dainty next to a CGL plastic mech from 2024. This sometimes looks strange on the table. You have to look carefully to see whether you are buying a “Resculpt” (new edition) or a “Classic Sculpt”.

4. price and availability A single metal mech often costs as much as 2-3 plastic mechs from a box. IWM is also a US company. In Europe, the models are available through distributors, but specific models are often “out of stock” and have long delivery times.

5. transportation logistics If you transport a whole company (12 mechs + vehicles) for Alpha Strike, you will feel the weight. You need more robust cases. Simple foam inserts, which are sufficient for plastic, often give way under the weight of pewter mechs, causing the figures to bump into each other in the case.

Conclusion: For whom is Iron Wind Metals worthwhile?

• Stick with plastic (CGL) if: You are new to the hobby, want ease of use, pay attention to the price and above all play the well-known “standard mechs”.
• Go to Iron Wind Metals if: You want to make full use of Alpha Strike with tanks and infantry (“Combined Arms”), you are looking for specific variants, you like modding or simply love the valuable feeling of heavy metal in your hand.

It’s all in the mix: Quite a few veterans use CGL plastic for the core of their army and supplement specialists, tanks and commanders with detailed models from Iron Wind Metals.

Checklist: Your starter kit for metal miniatures

If you’ve only been used to plastic from CGL up to now, you’ll notice: Metal is a different matter. So that the assembly of the Iron Wind Metals (IWM) miniatures does not end in frustration, this equipment should be on your crafting table:

1. the basics (compulsory)

• [Superglue (cyanoacrylate): Important! The plastic glue from Revell or Citadel does not work on metal. Recommendation: Gel superglue, as it does not run immediately and fills small gaps.
• Key files (needle files): Metal burrs (casting burrs) are often too hard for a simple craft knife. A set of small metal files is essential to smooth out the casting lines.
• Craft knife (scalpel): To remove coarse sprues or clean up fine details. Caution: Blades become blunt more quickly on metal!
• Soapy water & old toothbrush: Metal miniatures often still have oily residue from the release agent from the mold. Be sure to scrub off before gluing/priming, otherwise the paint will not hold.
• Priming spray (primer): Acrylic paint adheres extremely poorly to bare tin. A solid primer (black, gray or white) is essential.

2. for advanced users (recommended)

• Hand drill & paper clips (pins/pinning): Heavy arms or legs often break off at the gluing point on metal. The solution: Drill holes in both parts and glue in a piece of paper clip as a “bone”. This makes the miniature almost indestructible.
• Modeling clay (“Green Stuff” / Milliput): As metal parts shrink when they cool, the glued areas rarely fit 100%. Use Green Stuff to fill the gaps on the shoulders or hips.
• Matt varnish (Varnish): The most important step at the end. As metal paint flakes off easily (chipping), the finished miniature must be sealed with 1-2 coats of matt varnish.

3. optional, but helpful 🙂

• Superglue activator (spray): If you are holding heavy parts and the glue does not want to dry – a spray of activator lets the glue harden immediately.
• Acetone: If the painting fails or you want to “rescue” a used miniature from eBay. A bath in acetone will dissolve everything down to the bare metal.